I can’t
believe I’ve been in Aix-en-Provence for 3 weeks now! The name “Aix” is
actually pronounced like the letter “X” and it refers to a city built over a
hot spring. I don’t want to bore you with the Wikipedia stats, so instead I’m
going to focus on what my travel hero, Rick Steves, has to say.
Aix-en-Provence,
hereafter referred to as Aix, was founded around 120 BC as the first Roman
province. At one point it was owned by Barcelona before it transferred hands to
France. During this time, the aristocracy made Aix a place for luxury, building
large private mansions…a place to see and be seen. People were even carried
around the streets in sedan chairs (I saw one in the museum!). As you probably
expected, the Revolution changed all that, but over time Aix resumed its former
status (currently ~140,000 people). Here are the highlights of the walking tour
I took of the city my second weekend with a map of Aix if you would like to follow along.
La Rotonde
La Rotonde is a fountain at the heart of the city, connecting
many streets around Aix to the main boulevard, the Cours Mirabeau. The three
statues on top of the fountain represent Justice, Agriculture, and the Fine
Arts.
Cours Mirabeau
The Cours Mirabeau is nicknamed the "Champs-Elysées of Provence." The street is a pedestrian promenade shaded by plane trees, with a single lane for traffic. It divides the Old Town (to the North) and Mazarin Quarter (to the South), historically dividing the common folk (Old Town) from the rich (Mazarin side). The cross streets were even gated to make sure everyone stayed on their appropriate side! Just in case you were wondering, I live on the Mazarin side...I am definitely rich, just not in the money sense :)
This is my favorite moss-covered fountain in the center of the Cours Mirabeau. The fountain is fed by the thermal spas and apparently looks quite steamy on cold winter days!
Mazarin Quarter
The Mazarin Quarter is described by Rick Steves as a "peaceful, elegant residential neighborhood." Each of the mansions used to house just one family, but now many apartments and businesses are within one building. This is the Fountain of the Four Dolphins, inspired by Italian culture and the fountains in Rome.
Old Town
Place d'Albertas looks like a backdrop straight out of a movie and as of right now it is my favorite courtyard. Monsieur Albertas lived in a mansion across the street from this courtyard and disliked the view so much that he hired an architect to build the fountain and new building facade. The Albertas family still lives in the building across the street!
The Cathedral of the Holy Savior combines several architectural styles including Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque. I haven't had the chance to peek inside yet, but I'm sure it's beautiful.
And last but not least...the real reason I came to France
This is just one of the many macaron stores. I've given myself the task of finding the best macaron in Aix. Since I'll be here for 2 years, I'm excited to try more of the local cuisine, learn more about Aix history and culture, and truly become an "Aix"pert.
Votre ami,
Danielle
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